Essex, Ontario
One
of only two fieldstone stations still remaining in Ontario, Essex is a gem of
a station restoration. Constructed over 100 years ago by the Michigan Central
Railroad, Essex remains one of the most architecturally prominent depots in
the province. The station was built in 1887, but the story of the railroad in
Essex goes back more than a decade subsequent to 1873.
The
Michigan Central in Ontario traces its roots to the Canada Southern Railway
where John Milne set up a tiny wooden station, and installed the first
telegraph equipment. In 1880, CSR was leased to the Michigan Central as it
eyed a shortcut route north of Lake Erie between Detroit and Buffalo. Even
today, the arrow straight tracks of what remains of the MCRR mainline in
certain places in southwestern Ontario testify to the line's importance as a
trunk route.
In
1910, the railroad embarked on a modernization program, and upgraded the line
between Tilbury and Essex with 100 lb. rails. Double tracking had existed from
1882 to Windsor. In 1930, the line received new colored light signals. These
became the standard for signaling throughout the New York Central System.
Automatic Train Stop (ATC) was also installed on this racetrack of a railway.
Passenger service in the golden age of steam utilized the beautiful and speedy
NYC Hudson locomotives. A number
of depots still exist along the old MCRR. In addition to Essex, these include
Hagersville, Waterford, Tillsonburg, St.
Thomas and its shops, Ridgetown, and Comber.
These and an old concrete coaling tower near Canfield, Ontario are
vivid reminders of the once and glorious role played by the Michigan Central
as a part of New York Central's corporate empire. (Note:
this was written in 1996 and some of the structures listed may have since been
removed.)
The
Essex station is built of Saginaw Michigan field stone with split faces
(called "hard heads") and is trimmed with Credit Valley cut stone.
Similar to other depots on the MCRR (Niles, Michigan probably being the most
significant) it features a tower at the main entrance way and a carriage porte
cochere. Large divided light windows compliment the spacious waiting rooms
which are elegantly paneled. Only minor interior modifications have been made
to the station to accommodate its present use. The fact that this station is
with us today is no small miracle.
On
August 10th, 1907, an explosion rocked Essex. A boxcar containing some 5,000
lb. of highly explosive trinitroglycerin was waiting to be moved to
Amherstburg. This material was being used in the dredging of the ship channel
in the Detroit River. The "nitro", improperly packed, began to leak
onto the tracks. Railroad workers heard what they thought were rifle shots,
and then realized that it was the leaking explosive. The leaking boxes were
fixed, and thought to be safe. Later, when it came time to make up the train,
the boxcar was struck by another car. The resulting explosion was felt in
Detroit and Windsor. The blast killed two railroad workers and created a
crater 20 feet across and 12 feet deep. Damage to the station and surrounding
buildings was extensive, but the massive stone walls stood firm. Miraculously,
no one in the station was killed. Its waiting rooms had been full of
passengers waiting to board a train.
In
1996 the Essex depot housed a gift shop, an art gallery featuring local
residents of southwestern Ontario, and is operated by the town. Future plans
proposed incorporating a museum and archive center in the building. Adjacent
grounds and gardens are meticulously maintained, enhancing this landmark.
Although no longer in use as a passenger or railroad related station, this
building remains a beautiful monument to the Golden Age of Railroading. It is
a tribute to the proud and glamorous New York Central, and a superb example of
what can be accomplished with a station preservation project.
Photo
1, street side, Michigan Central RR, Essex, Ontario, July 22, 1996
Photo
by John C. Dahl
Photo
2, waiting room interior. Note fireplace and ornate windows.
Michigan
Central RR, Essex, Ontario, July 22, 1996
Photo
by John C. Dahl
Photo
3, west facade, looking across
the tracks
Michigan
Central RR, Essex, Ontario, July 22, 1996
Photo
by John C. Dahl